COS Takes On Seoul for Its Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
By Joanna Fox
The London-based brand heads to the sprawling South Korean capital.
This past March, COS returned to the runway to present its spring/summer 2026 collection, staging a show in Seoul, South Korea for the very first time. Set in a brutalist-style former bathhouse on the city’s outskirts, the striking scene featured models walking around pools filled with a cloudlike haze to a soundtrack captured on the Seoul subway—a tribute to the bustling capital’s urban soundscape.
Across 40 looks (which are now available online and in-store), a sea of slate greys, creams and warm browns was punctuated by flashes of blue and oxblood. Sculptural tailoring, fluid silhouettes and plays on materials (trompe l’oeil silks that looked like denim, textured leather, sheer lace ribbed knits) reflected a cross between ’80s power dressing and ’90s minimalism. Womenswear leaned into softened structure and ethereal transparency, while menswear reworked everyday tailoring with relaxed precision and understated utility.
Celeb guests seated front and centre included current campaign stars Alexander Skarsgård and Gyuyoung Park, American actor Emma Roberts, Mexican actor Diego Calva, Thai singer Mile Phakphum Romsaithong, and Korean singer Sohyun Kim. “I’m wearing head-to-toe COS,” Roberts says of her chic dove gray monochrome look including a leather wrap skirt, textured silk skirt, clutch and matching gray shoes. “I might have to take it [all] home honestly, I’m totally obsessed with my look.”
From left: Alexander Skarsgård, Emma Roberts and Diego Calva
Canadian content creator Cassandra Lanrick (who was featured on one of our past Ten Questions’ page in ELLE Canada) took a more playful approach to her show look. “This is a COS men’s shirt, and I’m wearing another men’s shirt [tied around my waist] just to cover up a little bit, make it a bit more interesting,” she told me, pairing it with a paper bag-style purse and COS accessories.
Cassandra Lanrick
Post-show, and ahead of the celebratory dinner held later that evening at the Korea Furniture Museum, we spoke with creative director Karin Gustafson about her inspiration for this collection, her choice of location and the dialogue between runway and street-style.
Karin Gustafson
What was your starting point for this collection?
“The collection explores themes of cinematic beauty, exploring references to the ‘80’s and ‘90’s through refined silhouettes and a sense of ease. Rooted in craftsmanship and materiality (from subtle sheens to crinkled, paper‑like textures and transparent elements) classic designs have been reimagined for the season featuring strong shoulders and fluid tailoring.”
How are you seeing the brand evolve?
“Craftsmanship, longevity, and functionality have been central to our approach since the beginning, and this is a continuation of these principles. We consistently take inspiration from the seasons and the ever-changing world around us, whether that be from art, design, architecture, film, music, nature or contemporary culture, which leads us to experiment with silhouette and materiality. Ultimately, it is these influences that evolve our collections, ensuring each design remains considered, relevant, and refined season upon season.”
Do you have any favourites?
“For me, it’s all about those wardrobe foundations that strike a balance between elegance and a sense of ease. I’m particularly drawn to the trompe l’oeil silk denim pieces, as well as the tailored silk top, styled with Bermuda shorts—looks that reimagine set dressing in a way that feels both modern and unexpected. Silk remains central to our spring/summer collection, offering a lightweight fluidity and a versatility that allows each piece to be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion. In the atelier, we experimented with softly pleated constructions, sculpting them into an off-shoulder gown and a signature shirt—classic designs reinterpreted through the COS lens. I’m also especially excited by the sculptural leather accessories we’ve introduced this season, designed with complementary fabrications that can be mixed and matched to elevate any look with a refined, contemporary edge.”
What about your choice to present in Seoul? What does this city mean to you and how does it inspire you?
“As a global creative hub, Seoul was a fitting backdrop for this collection. The venue, a brutalist inspired space on the outer edges of the city, featured unused pools that were reimagined to create a surreal, architectural canvas, while the set provided a clean, geometric spatial intervention for our collections to come to life, drawing attention to silhouette, craftsmanship, and the final details. As COS’ first show in Korea, this was an exciting milestone, set against one of the world’s most dynamic centers of fashion, art and contemporary culture.”
I love how fans of the brand style the pieces in different ways. Does it ever surprise you?
“It’s always incredibly inspiring – there’s nothing more exciting than seeing a piece we designed in one way, styled in an entirely new light. At COS, we create with that versatility in mind, designing each piece to invite experimentation and empower the wearer to express their own identity. Watching people around the world layer, adapt and personalise our designs, often in ways we never anticipated, continues to inspire us.”
Do you think street style influences runway or the opposite in terms of COS?
“For us, it’s a dialogue. Street style often reveals how people live with clothing – how they move, layer, and express themselves. COS sits between the two: refined enough for the runway, practical and fluid enough to belong in everyday life.”
COS has become so beloved globally. What’s the COS magic?
“For me, the magic lies in attention to detail. Each season, we challenge ourselves to explore craftsmanship and materiality further – experimenting with silhouettes to create distinctive wardrobe icons. We embrace unexpected layering and carefully manipulate shape and proportion to develop a diverse expression of silhouettes, continually evolving our design language while reimagining classic pieces through a contemporary lens. Craftsmanship meets modernity – creating pieces that feel timeless yet relevant for years to come. They are understated, but never simple; within each design lies a considered functionality, an innovative construction, or a material exploration that reveals itself. It’s this approach that results in high-quality pieces that resonate and leave a lasting impression.”
What was your favourite part about this show?
“Seeing the collection come to life in Seoul was truly special. The moment the soundtrack filled the space and the models emerged through the haze, everything connected: the city, the architecture, the collection, the mood.”
